Published Articles
Judging the GSD
Recently, I got a call from an old-time Shepherd friend and she said she had just found the article and read it, and said “ You must have a crystal ball, you can predict the Future!!’. We both laughed and I said,” I don’t have a “Crystal Ball’ , but I can sense a storm coming a long way off”.
We are now in the midst of that Storm and frankly I don’t see any sunny days ahead.
UNLESS: We have drastic changes in lowering the Pro Handler’s fees, etc. and the ‘Specialty Show System” and SOON!!”
I don’t ‘foretell’ that happening. I see a silent folding of tents , and a steady moving away to the All-Breed Rings, because, the All-Breed Shows, will be the only ones left, , who can still afford to put on Shows.. It will never be the same and we can only be grateful that we lived in a time, of the “ Specialty Show ERA “… Sorry to present such a “ DOOM and GLOOM “ prediction but it is an honest , from the heart , Prediction.
For those who are interested in judging the German Shepherd Breed, you should attend GSD Specialty Shows , the GSDCA National Specialty Show and the WDA NASS GSD Shows… where you can see the West German Shepherds in action… Our breed is a man-made breed, which came from the passion of Captain Max von Stephanitz , in Germany, to produce the GREATEST WORKING BREED this WORLD has Ever Known, or will ever know… over 100 years ago.. he began with three herding dog strains and devoted his life to creating a German Shepherd Working Breed that was the MOST VERSATILE, TRAINABLE , , COURAGEOUS, FAITHFUL, and DEPENDABLE and INTELLIGENT CANINE BREED in the WORLD...
HE SUCCEEDED!
I would urge anyone desiring to judge, the GSD Breed… to acquire the GSD BIBLE…. “ The German Shepherd Dog” by Captain Max von Stephanitz…Read it from cover to cover, over and over again… Always remember, our GSDCA Breed Standard, was written directly from the SV Breed Standard, of the Breed’s Mother Country, GERMANY, by Captain Max von Stephanitz.. …. You need to read every GSD Book you can get your hand’s on, including GSD Breed magazines, and study them… Judging the German Shepherd with A True Knowledge and Appreciation of this Great Breed is an Awesome Task…
Let us start from the Beginning :
You must first understand that the GSD Breed today, over-all, lacks uniformity of type, conformation and movement…So when your Class comes into the ring, you will be presented with Shepherds, who often are different in Conformation and Movement…
Why? Because too many breeders breed according to their own personal breed Standards and Preferences, correct or incorrect, and the Judges , often judge, according to their personal breed standards and preferences.. which, sadly, too often, includes their preference for the Handlers who support their entries and keep them getting Breed Assignments… ….So it makes it difficult to come to any conclusions, about exactly what a particular Judge likes and dislikes in the Breed.. and that often discourages those who are limited in their ability to pay , often extreme handling fees..
At one time, the Breeders were in control and they knew exactly what each Judge liked and disliked, and they exhibited their Shepherds with a lot more knowledge and possibilities of winning…It has, become somewhat of a crapshoot, nowadays..
The one constant is that most accept the hard fact, that it is the human on the end of the lead, which wins or loses, not the dog…This has had a ghastly toll on the entries in the Shows.. As it limited those with limited means to afford Pro Handlers…and exhibit..
First in importance when judging, is to learn and practice the ‘RIGHT APPROACH” to the GSD , as a Judge…At Speciality Shows, the GSDCA requests that all Judges adopt their uniform rules for approaching the GSD to evaluate Temperament and Character…
Which is: To request the Handler to present the dog on a loose lead and the Judge approaches and does not speak to the dog…and pats it, etc… That might have worked in the past, but with the German Imports .coming back into the Conformation Ring, I would suggest that you have your class brought into the ring in catalog order, one at a time, and have each one move around the ring to a designated place where you begin your examination.. be sure the Dogs are NOT in a place, where they are lined up, where the sun is in THEIR EYES , as you approach…Then you proceed to start with the first dog at the head of the line.. As you approach the Dog in a NORMAL manner, with confidence , you ask the Handler, in a calm voice, to
“Please take the dog down and back and once around on a loose lead and bring them back before me, and let them stand naturally”… When that is accomplished, you say to the Handler in a calm and self-assured voice, ‘Thank You’….and ask them to “please ‘set the dog up for an exam’… When the Handler has the dog s set up, you calmly approach the dog at a normal natural pace, and say something like “ Hello Son”, or “Hello Pretty Girl”, etc…You don’t STARE at the dog and you don’t EVER LOOK, for any more than a few seconds, at them DRIRECTLY in the EYES…That is considered an Aggressive Action to the Dog. You NEVER ‘stalk’ them!!! Approach from ONE DIRECTION, and EXIT From the Same. DON”T EVER CIRCLE THE DOG!!!… Be purposeful and business like in your Approach and Confident… Ask the Handler to show the teeth , and inform the Handler that you are going to check the testes of the Dog, so the Handler has the Dog under Control… … and you make your first physical contact by running your hand down the back of the dog, gently, and if he is standing quietly, slowly move your hand down his rump and under his tail and feel for the testes.. You should very gently , feel for two normal size testes, and both should be the same size and firm and well-formed.. NEVER SQUEEZE them!!!!…Learn to do this quickly and without any sudden or unusual movements of your hand…
NEVER touch the Dog’s HEAD!!! You can obstruct their vision and that can cause the Dog to react negatively, and become suspicious of you…NEVER HOVER over the Dog!!!! Stand Straight…Do your Job and observe the Dog and their reaction to you, to ascertain if they appear to be confident and secure and NOT Negative and/or Fearful of you and your Exam…You can steal quick glances at the Dog’s eyes and see instantly what reaction you are having on the Dog.. Their eyes tell the TRUTH!!!!! They can be trained to stand for periods of time… and they can be trained to present a confident demeanor.. But no one can Train Their Eyes!!!! LEARN to QUICKLY READ their Eye’s and the EXPRESSION in the their Eyes!!! They will tell you all you need to know, if you learn to read them correctly.. They can warn you if the Dog is fearful enough, or suspicious of you, causing it to become self-protective or ready to shy away…A fearful dog can become a dangerous dog.. These Dogs should never be exhibited , who have that propensity, but sometimes you will run across one or two, so be fore-warned… Another warning: Never wear Perfume or Shaving Lotion or any scents that MASK your Human Smell… Dangling bracelets, necklaces, etc.. Floppy hats that cover your eyes…. If even for a moment…
Try to dress simply and present a very natural and normal presence…If you have to wear a rain-Coat, and rain-hat, boots, etc.. remember that plastic covers your scent, so take the time, to give the Dog time, to adjust to you…Don’t rush in and try to do it quickly.. Dogs do NOT like people who smell of Cigarettes, or Cigar Smoke or Alcohol… …Stay calm and self-assured. This gives the Dog confidence in you… If you are nervous and make quick, unexpected movements and make many motions with your arms and hands, you can cause a nervous reaction in the Dog…Also be aware of your voice and it’s volume and pitch. Speak in a normal and confident manner..
If you have any fear of large Dogs, etc… then you should NOT consider judging such Breeds…. German Imports are not touched by the Judges…as a rule.. They have their teeth and testes examined by a Helper at the entrance of the ring and a report is presented to the Judge… This is the normal procedure for them… Unless they are trained to accept the requirements of handling in the USA Rings, this can present a problem….
Always be on the watch when a child exhibits his or her dog, as the Male s can become very protective of the child… That also applies to Women Owner/Handlers with their Male Dogs in particular…
Give the Dogs the Great Respect they Deserve!!! Never approach them in a ‘Hail fellow, Well –Met’ attitude and stanch , grabbing at them and hugging them and becoming way too familiar way too quick… the German Shepherd, in particular, must accept you first, before you are allowed such privileges,( if you ever are).. … if you do not own the Dog, it will never be a good idea…The GSD Is naturally Suspicious of Strangers when he or she is with their Owners… So, it is BEST, to approach them all, with Great Respect . and never ASSUME Liberties, they may not wish to give…
This all sounds rather like they are risky to approach and I do not mean for you to assume that idea.. I am merely pointing out the correct way to approach any GSD to get the Best reaction from them, possible, so that your judging goes smoothly and without incident…
When you are gaiting the GSD’S together, be sure and keep them at some distance from each other. No crowding up on one another…As sexually mature males often take offense with each other over the slightest excuse… Fortunately most who are ring-trained by knowledge trainers, are, for the most part, rather tolerant of each other, in the ring.
Don’t assume that Females are never a problem in that way. In some cases, they can be .. There is an old Saying about GSD’S.. “ The Males will fight till one is exhausted, the females will fight until one is dead’… So, it is best to keep them from crowding each other, as well.
Each Dog is brought to you singularly for you to evaluate… That begins with the Going down and Coming back, so a Judge can evaluate ‘coming’ and ‘going’ movement…
Hopefully you will have a Shepherd who moves away from you with strong, correct hock action driving under itself in a direct and straight forward action, with no weakness of hocks, no showing any weakness in the way the hock is placed directly under the dog, strongly and purposefully….….I hope you understand that a weak hock and those which are overly long, and the resulting weak action, where the hock gives with the dog’s weight, and/or twists and is turned in or turned out, in motion, is totally incorrect and that dog will not last very long in motion… It is an EXTREME weakness…. And Totally Incorrect for any Working Breed… A Lap Dog can be carried about in the owner’s arms, but not a Working BREED!!! They MUST be able to COVER GROUND with GREAT Efficiency and Mobility…and AGILITY!!! They should be able to “ Turn on a dime and hand you the change”, quickly and not miss a beat, change direction at an instant with no giving, or any signs of weakness of their hocks…The hock is the springboard from which that dog launches itself over walls and fences and into action…… Their HOCKS are the Fulcrum that produces the POWER and AGILE Hindquarter thrust and propulsion…THE HOCK IS THE POWER and DELIVERS THE HINDQUARTER PROPULSION TO THE FORE-QUARTER, THRU THE BACK….NOW, that Hock gets it’s power from being well-formed, strong, firm and functional from it’s strength and musculature from the Strong Stifle and the all-Important connection of the Upper and Lower stifle…and the MUSCLE POWER of both the LOWER and UPPER Hindquarter Musculature and the Ligaments and the Cartilage and Tendons , all play an extremely Important part in the POWER that completes The Hindquarter, which, as a whole can deliver it’s propulsion ,thru the Croup and Back into the fore-quarter…As the English would say, many Moons ago, ‘It is ALL OF A PIECE”… Nothing functions perfectly without the Perfect Function of the Entire Whole!!! To Exaggerate any part of the body, is to destroy the whole!!! And it’s function!!!’…
A dead give-away of a Serious Mal-function of the hock, is foot-dragging… and this extends up and into the lower stifle…When a dog moves, with it’s hocks, at one point in the gait, or standing, that are laying flat on the ground, including the POINT of the HOCK, that is a Deadly Foreteller of the Weakness and Instability of the entire Hindquarter…The Hind-foot should be strong and well-formed with good thick pads, to traverse the dog over any kind of footing… Any Part of this Hind-quarter with any weakness , is like a Machine which has a Mal-functioning part…that affects and often destroy’s the whole… The POWER of the DRIVE Originates and comes from the POWER and STABILITY of that HOCK!!!! Never forget it is the FULCRUM!!! NEVER UNDERESTIMATE IT”S Premier VALUE in the MOVEMENT of this WORKING BREED…An Overly Long stifle and long hock, creates a WEAKNESS and the HOCK sitting too far behind the dog, because of it, destroys the POWER and ENDURANCE of the Dog…That hock has to be able to move fluidly and powerfully straight under the body of the dog, and come out behind in a OPEN , straight motion..easily clearing itself to move back under and out, in a sweeping direct and perfectly timed motion…
The German Shepherd should APPEAR to be and MUST be, Powerful, Strong, Muscular and AGILE….. A weak Hindquarter, or any part of it, is in Direct Opposition to these Breed Standard Requirements.
The FORE- QUARTER, is composed of the Shoulder Blade and Upper Arm and the elbow and fore-leg and pastern and foot. ANY deviation in any of these ‘parts’ is a deviation from the NORM and the ability for the Dog to use it’s entire Forequarter in a far- reaching direct action….The power from the Hindquarter thrust is delivered to the Fore-quarter thru the back into the shoulder and that upper arm must reach out directly from the elbow, in a strong , straight action of the entire foreleg and pastern and foot, with the propulsion coming from the opening of the SHOULDER , Not the Elbow…If the Shoulder-Blade is laid on too upright and is short and open at the top where the two shoulder-blades meet, that demonstrates a SIGNIFICANT WEAKNESS …The Shoulder Blades should meet closely at the top in what is called a ‘well-knit’ fashion.. Determined by the fact that a woman with the average woman’s size hands, should only be able to get one fore-finger, between the blades where they meet , at the most!!
The Upper Arm should be long in direct proportion to the Shoulder Blade, and well angulated so that it lays on flat and well-laid back,. The configuration of both, should approximate a figure V laid on sideways… so that if you drop a plumb line from the top of the shoulder blade, it should drop directly behind the elbow of the dog to the ground.. with the dog standing perfectly square, and normal with it’s fore-legs under it in a natural position. The top of the V being the top of the shoulder-blade and the bottom of the V , at front of the fore=leg. The point of the V is where the Upper arm and Shoulder blade meet. .
The Fore-quarter CANNOT be correct with any mal-formation of the RIB-CAGE… The Rib-Cage, should be long and well carried back , a pear shape, with no hint of Barrel or rounded ribs and no hint of flat ribbing. The rib-cage ends at what should be a short, powerful muscular loin…and aids in a correct under-line of the dog…If the Fore-quarter is Barrel-Ribbed, too wide and round, it forces the fore-quarter to be laid on at an incorrect angle… and causes the elbows to be forced out and unable to allow the foreleg to come straight out from the shoulder and rather causes an awkward
Out at the Elbow” action… This causes extreme tiring in motion very quickly.. If the Ribbing is flat, it can affect the elbows of the foreleg, to come together too close under the dog, causing a pinched front, which also greatly restricts the action of the foreleg..and creates a serious failure in the ability of the dog to move correctly in front and have it’s fore-legs moving straight out and close to the ground with no lifting or flipping of pasterns, etc.. The Pasterns and front feet , must be very strong, like the Hock… when they contact the ground beneath the dog they are absorbing all that power and weight from the hindquarter propulsion into and thru the topline of the back into the forequarter, to achieve a smooth and agile and effortless , opening and direct forward reaching, extending , and expending the thrust of that hind-quarter power in motion… Never Forget…” THE FRONT HAS TO GET THERE FIRST!!!”…
Many Judges neglect the ‘nuances of improper motion of the Hindquarter and/or the Forehand, and instead concentrate all their attention on the SIDE-GAIT… Which can be
Impressive at the SHORT term….But a True Shepherd Specialist knows that even small problems with the Hindquarter action and/or the Fore=quarter action, (coming and going) will soon take it’s toll on the duration of that side-gait…if one could keep the dog in motion for any length of time, as in the Old Days, when dogs were required to move at a steady strong trot , around a huge ring for one or two to three hours…often going into a ‘Flying Trot” for several long laps… Those of us fortunate enough to compete in those days, quickly learned that perfection and endurance of that side-gait depended upon a perfectly functioning Hindquarter and Fore-Quarter action…Without which, the dog would soon tire and the effects of the imperfection of such incorrect coming and /or going action, would soon eliminate the dog from competition… We referred to it as “ the Dog is breaking down”….
Too many breeders in recent years, have been over-looking everything for a rapid quick-fire mover… That is totally against the Breed Standard for correct Shepherd Movement… The Shepherd should appear to be, and actually to be, EFFORTLESS and FLUID in MOTION like a Perfect Machine!!!! The legs do not move fast…. They drive and extend in a beautiful , graceful , motion, covering the maximum amount of ground with the minimum number of steps’…The Shepherd at a full out Flying Trot, lowers it’s body to the ground and merely extends it legs, farther under and farther out to achieve that correct Highly prized Standard required , Flying Trot…where all four feet are momentarily off the ground, from which comes the name ‘FLYING;” As in “Flying Trot’…. Too many today are just moving fast , with very quick, short strides and creating an illusion of correct movement.
It always reminds me of the line from the poem..” My Candle burns at both ends and it will not last the night’… FOR:
Without ENDURANCE the PURPOSE of this WORKING BREED is LOST!
When Judging this Breed, it is ABSOLUTELY a SIN, to ignore The SEX CHARACTERISTICS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The BREED is NOTABLE for it’s MAGNIFICENT NOBILITY and ‘THE LOOK OF EAGLES”.. A bitchy, fine-headed male that lacks STRONG SECONDARY SEX CHARACTERISTICS is NOT to be seriously considered for Placements or Breeding…regardless of it’s movement…
The Female should look like a FEMALE…But she should have a Strong Well-shaped Head and Strong Expression of Nobility and the “LOOK OF EAGLES” as well…
She will be the Mother of Her SONS, and without her having Great Nobility, she cannot produce NOBLE SONS…. To carry on the BEAUTY and AWESOME CHARACTERISTICS that set this GERMAN SHEPHERD BREED APART FROM ALL OTHERS!!!!
The Shepherd must be viewed from all angles as well , including looking down on it, to see the width of the body and it’s proportions…To check the spring of the ribbing, the length of the loin and the breadth of the Fore-quarters and the Breadth of the Hindquarters… which must present a perfect balance…. A female can be forgiven for a slightly longer loin as she will be required to carry a litter… BUT, the Back should remain strong and without sway, dip or roach… The neck that supports the Magnificent Heads of this Breed must be strong and well-muscled.. NEVER overly long or too short or weak-muscled…The neck must lower and support the head when the dog is in motion and allow the maximum output of that fore-quarter and it must be strong and able to endure that support for however long it is called upon to do so… The GSD should have a perfect length and curve of croup and a long , strong tail… The tail is the continuation of the spine and should not have any sign of mis-shaped verterbrae’s…or curls or twists, etc.. It balances the dog when it makes quick or abrupt turns, etc…
The GSD is only slighter longer than tall… as 8 is to 10 and ½ is correct… There are many Conformation and Character requirements and they should all be heeded!! We have some overly long dogs in recent years with straight upright shallow fore-quarters and long, weak muscled stifles… Some of these backs ‘are a Bridge too Far’.and give in motion and cannot deliver that hindquarter power and drive effectively to the fore-quarter.. The bones of the Shepherd should be OVAL and hard.. Round, Spongy bones are a serious fault…
The teeth should be large and well-shaped and close together in Strong Jaws… The Bite should be closely looked at, as an even bite can result in wear and tear and an overshot or undershot mouth, can result in a poor grip and be a problem to the perfect formation of the muzzle itself.
The pigmentation should be VERY RICH with STRONG COLORS …..and the coat should be of double-strength for protection in all climes… The undercoat MUST be thick and a strong insulator.. The outer coat should be hard and without waves and curls… it should have a beautiful sheen that speaks of great health of the Dog carrying it…
We need and must have a Beauty of Head, because it is the Hallmark of This Breed.. The erect and perfectly shaped and formed ears, set perfectly on a strong and correctly shaped skull is an absolute MUST!! A dark warm brown expressive eye of almond shape ( not round!!) set perfectly in the head, is the SOUL of this BREED… It is in the Eyes of this Breed that you can read ‘It’s Heart’ !!!!
This Breed must always present with Strong Confidence and Certainty that THEY are in Complete and Total Control and can handle whatever comes their way…Any sign of weak nerves and/or concern of strange objects, etc. is to be severely penalized… The Shepherd should be always at ease in it’s strategic surroundings…Instantly taking it all in and observing every thing in it’s area… When with it’s Master, it should be instantly aware of all that surrounds it’s Master, and should take instant notice of any sign of possible danger or harm to it’s Master.. and quietly keep note of it… The German Shepherd is the Strongest Most Intelligent and Discriminating Protector of it’s Master and all that belongs to them….Their Sworn Duty is to “ GUARD and DEFEND and PROTECT” that MASTER… They will give their LIFE without any concern for themselves for that MASTER…
I am always in AWE, that I , who mean nothing to So Many Millions in this World, Mean the World to My Incredible German Shepherds…